This is a high quality sword
& thus requires a little more technology than the standard
beater. It also requires the use of better materials. For example
you want to use Evalite & fiberglass instead of Blue-camp
foam & PVC pipe. This page is an update of the original page
because I've been able to expand on the original design due to
experience & helpful suggestions. For example: I've simplified
the cross-guard to be ethafoam instead of the bund-rubber &
foam composite. I've also added tape reinforcing to the inner
blade & used a built up tip.
Please note if you use the
PVC core option then you can easily make 4 swords from 2 of the
PVC cores & one sheet of the 1/2 Evalite (no need for the
3/8" Evalite) which reduces the Sword cost for all materials
to under $10.00 a Sword. Cut each PVC core in half for 30"
long cores including handle & cut the Evalite along the shorter
edge. You'll have a shorter sword but a lot of savings done fast.
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The Improved Fiberglass
or PVC Core Sword |
- Material list:
1) core: use either
- PVC: less expensive & a
little more whippy in action.
- Square PVC core: McMaster-Carr Solid square PVC rod (part
#8660k33) PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type I Square Bar 1/2"
Square, 5' Length - $4.00
- Fiberglass:
- best buy: Action Armoury 3/8
x 3/8 x 36" fiberglass #9 square profile rod ($1.95
+ shipping) ----- or ----
- best quality: a 34 inch length of type 43 Nupla
core -------- or ------------
- alternately McMaster-Carr fiberglass rod (part
#8543k23 [10 foot by ½ inch round]) --------------------
- sanded down to a 3/8" square profile. Remove any glaze
off the blade area of the core for best adhesion.This length
is assuming a 6" long grip & a 27-½" blade.
If you wish a longer grip please add to the basic core length.
2) Evalite foam: McMaster-Carr part# 86095k24 [24"x48"x1/2"
sheet] --- Cut 2 strips 26" long by 4" wide.
a. Evalite foam: Additionally you will need 3 rectangles of the
½ foam that are 4" by 1-1/2".
b. Evalite foam: Additional foam pieces will be use to build
the pommel.
- c. Evalite foam: (PVC core only)
2 strips 26" long by 2" wide
3) (fiberglass core only) Evalite
foam: McMaster-Carr part #86095k23 [24"x48"x3/8"]
--- 2 strips, 26" long by 2" wide.
- 4) Original formula (red-can) DAP contact cement.
5) Small disposable & inexpensive brushes - don't use foam
brushes. - hardware store
6) Strips of ¼ ounce square lead weights - from a model
railroading store. Alternately you can use thin lead sheet for
counter-weighting.
7) 2 tongue depressors
8) Nylon strapping tape, 1-1/2" or 2" wide - hardware
store
9) Duct tape - hardware store
10) Electrical tape - hardware store
11) Hockey tape - from a sporting good store
Optional cross guard:
12) A rectangle of 1" Ethafoam 6" by 2-1/2" (McMaster-Carr
part . I use scraps from making foam-core shields.
Sword cover:
13) Use a soft stretchy material with some durability, such as
poplin. - fabric store.
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Cautions: When working with fiberglass especially or any power
tools, it's important to wear appropriate safety equipment. This
includes a breathing mask to prevent inhalation of the fiberglass
dust; Safety goggles to protect the eyes; & gloves to protect
the hands. Also when using fiberglass or glue, allow for adequate
ventilation! Also make sure you have plenty of light to work
by & that your tools are in good repair. -- (please note that figure 1 shows me without gloves
or my safety boots. This was done so that you could see the picture
more clearly & no power was on the sander) |
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figure 1 - sanding
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1) Using a belt sander shape the blade
part of the fiberglass core down to a 3/8" by 3/8"
profile. See figure 1. Lightly round the edges & top
point to minimize the core cutting into the foam but not so much
as to destroy the flats. Make sure any glaze (polished areas)
has been sanded so that you get better adhesion. |
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figure 2 - taping the tip
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2) Wrap one layer of nylon strapping tape around the top tip
of the fiberglass & lightly cover the end. This helps to
lengthen the life of the sword by minimize the core cutting into
the foam. See figure 2. |
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3) Glue the two strips of the 3/8 Evalite to both striking edges
of the fiberglass core or the 1/2"x 2" strips for the
PVC core. See the middle sword of figure 3. Allow it to
dry completely. |
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figure 3 - a complete sword & the inner construction.
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4) Run a length of the nylon strapping tape that covers
both foam pieces & the core up the centerline of the inner
sword. Do the same on the opposite side. See the bottom sword
in figure 3. The nylon strapping tape will hold the foam
to the core better & prevent tearing. It also is a much better
surface for the Dap to stick to than any other tape, fiberglass,
or even the foam. Be careful not to carry the tape to far out
to the edge as it will make the sword to rigid & even cause
the center foam to tear by preventing proper compression. |
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5) Glue the long ½" Evalite strips to both faces
of the inner sword. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly. |
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6) Use a short (approximately 3" long) strip of the nylon
strapping tape to go up & over the tip of the sword from
face to face. Do not cover the striking edge. |
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7) Glue the 3 pieces of ½" Evalite to the tip of
the sword & allow to dry thoroughly. |
8) Mark a taper for each edge of the foam so that the blade graduates
up from 3-1/4" at the tip to 4" at the grip end. The
taper should be centered about the core so that the fiberglass
is in the very center with the same amount of foam on each edge.
a. Use a long sharp knife to cut out the taper.
b. Then using the belt sander, sand the edge smooth to an exact
taper of 3" at the tip & 3-3/4" at the grip end
of the blade. Use the sander to slightly round the tip if desired.
(Note I only recommend rounding if you are very accomplished
at sewing. |
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figure 4 - reinforcing the tip
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9) Reinforcing the tip: Note that building out
the tip from separate pieces of foam & adding the reinforcement
tape you will extend the life of the overall blade since it is
easy to rebuild the tip. The tip is usually the first part of
the sword to breakdown. See figure 4.
a. Add a scuff of nylon strapping tape to the face of the tip.
This will help prevent tearing of the foam on grazing blows.
b. Take a 12" long strip of nylon strapping tape & center
it over the tip of the sword so that it extends down both faces
of the blade. This strengthens the tip.
c. Take a 7" length of the hockey tape & tape down the
tip & onto the striking edge. This supports the tip against
separation & yet is soft enough to not hurt when hitting
someone. Avoid the folly of doing the entire striking edge, as
that will actually increase the chances of foam tearing on the
blade edge. |
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figure 5 - sliding on the ethafoam cross-guard
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10) Building the optional cross guard: Using the
Ethafoam to make your cross-guard provides you with a stiff yet
safe protection for the hand. However some people prefer swords
without this extra complication. I usually use a scrap piece
of foam left over from shield or axe making. Note that you should
not shape the guard such that it violates the Dagorhir rules.
Certainly other types of guards could be made such as a leather
cup-guard. This is up to the builder's discretion within the
Dagorhir rules.
a. Mark the center of the cross-guard face & punch a small
hole through it. Slide it partway onto the fiberglass core. See
figure 5.
b. Before sliding the guard into place, use the Dap glue to join
the guard to the blade & to the core. Allow the glue to dry.
c. Take a strip of nylon strapping tape & join the flat of
the blade to the cross-guard on both sides. Use a smaller bit
of nylon strapping tape to join the edge to the guard. Finally
tape the guard to the core.
d. Carefully cover the guard with Duct tape so it's smooth. Put
a strip of Electrical tape around the edge to soften the Duct
tape. See the top sword in figure 3.
e. Put a band of Duct tape around the blade by the guard. This
secures the tape & becomes an attachment point for the "sock"
to be added later. |
11) Building the grip: Be sure to leave ½
inch of exposed core for the pommel. On example sword here we
will have a 6" long grip, which should be more than enough
for most fighters.
a. Sand the core if needed to remove any glaze or smooth areas.
This will allow glue to stick better.
b. Sand two tongue depressors or popsicles sticks to match the
fiberglass core on the flat (non-edge) sides of the blade. This
widens the core so that it matches the model train weights. Glue
them in place with the DAP & allow to thoroughly dry.
c. Weigh the sword if possible.
d. Put a layer of nylon strapping tape over the grip to secure
the wood more tightly to the core & to create a better adhesion
surface for the weights.
e. Cover the two faces of the grip that are on the same side
as the edges with the ¼ ounce model train weights. Use
the DAP glue as well as the sticky they come with. This should
bring the sword up to the 12oz minimum weight. I usually stop
at 11-1/2 oz since the remaining tape, foam, & sock will
make up the rest with a little over for sloppy scales. If more
weight is needed then add them on the tongue depressors as needed
& glue into place.
f. After the glue has thoroughly dried. Cover the grip in nylon
strapping tape. An additional layer of hockey tape will cover
this after the pommel has been secured. |
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figure 6 - the finished crossguard, grip, & pommel
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12) Building the pommel: The pommel can be made
complex as long as it conforms to the Dagorhir rules for circumference.
You can shape for example a Viking 3-lobe pommel using scrap
Ethafoam leftover from a shield. For this example I'm showing
a basic pommel built of Evalite.
a. Cut 5 squares 2 inches by 2 inches of the ½ inch Evalite.
With a large nail pierce the center of one of the squares so
that it can slide onto the core.
b. Glue the pierced square of foam onto the core & then glue
another square on top of that.
c. Secure the first 2 layers with nylon strapping tape.
d. Glue the remaining 3 squares onto the anchored squares.
e. Carefully cover the pommel with Hockey tape.
f. Wrap all but the top ¾ inch (the end away from the
grip) in duct tape & taper it tight at the bottom into the
grip area.
g. Cover the tapered pommel & grip all the way up to the
cross-guard in hockey tape. Secure the ends of the hockey tape
with a band of electrical tape. see figure 6. |
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figure 7 - fitting the sock
figure 8 - sewing the end of the sock
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13) Making the "sock" for the sword:
The fabric purchased for the sock should be durable like a heavy
poplin & should have a little bit of stretch too it. It should
be not too stiff, scratchy, or furry. Your local fabric store
has varying selections to choose from & they will very from
season to season. Don't use denims (too stiff), wools (to scratchy),
or muslin (too flimsy). I recommend using a pinking shears for
all fabric cutting since that will extend the life of the sock
& prevent fraying.
a. Cut a rectangle of fabric 12 inches wide by 29 inches long.
b. Pin the fabric firmly without stretching it or compressing
the foam around the sword as in figure 7. Note that the
end is also pinned closed. Be sure that the fabric is pinned
inside out so that the hem selvages will be on the inside.
c. Remove the sock & check how tightly you pinned it. If
the sock is really difficult to remove you've pinned it to tight.
If it falls off or looks really baggy, it's too loose. If either
of those conditions occurs, re-pin the sock to get it right!
d. Sew the side of the sock closed. Do not sew the end closed!
Be sure to stay about 1/8 of an inch to the outside of your pinning.
This will give you a little give when putting the sock on. This
amount will be adjusted with practice & is dependent on how
tightly you pinned the fabric. Get used to your style. You may
have to make more than one sock when you are learning.
e. Trim off the hem selvage (the excess) to ¼" using
a pinking shears.
f. Most beginners call this good enough, sew the end closed,
slide the sock on & call it good. Let's try going a little
further for a better sword. Grab the end of the sock with your
fingers & straighten it out so that the edge seam is now
on the flat side. The end of the tube & the side seam sort
of form a "T". Pin the end & now sew the end closed.
Trim your hem excess to ¼" using a pinking shears.
See the top picture of figure 8.
g. We now will eliminate the dog-ears than most beginners get
on their socks. Grasp the sewn end of the sock by the side seam
& the fabric on the opposite face & gently pull them
in opposite directions. Notice how the end seam forms two ears
at the ends of the seams. Flatten those down so that the seam
goes up the center & the tips form a point. Pin them down.
Then sew across the flaps at right angles to the seam & about
5/8" to ¾" of an inch down. Trim off the dog-ears.
See the middle & bottom pictures of figure 8.
h. Turn the sock right side out & notice you have a nice
box end for your sword tip.
i. Slide the sock onto the blade. Trim it so there is approximately
½ of exposed duct tape at then cross-guard end of the
blade. Then tape the sock into place.
Your sword is finished! |
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figure 9 - a method of determing
sword length
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A classic method of determining the appropriate
blade length for a fighter is to grasp a yardstick as if it were
a sword & hold it down at your side so that the tip touches
the ground as in figure 9. This will give you the maximum
length of your blade plus the cross-guard. Subtract the width
of your cross-guard to determine your exact blade length. The
reason for this measure is that medieval sword styles often have
you doing a circular recovery as well as low leg blows. Thus,
if your sword is too long then you will hit the ground often,
slowing blows & preventing you from being able to in-fight
in tight circumstances like melees. Experienced fighters can
compensate for this & may choose a longer or shorter sword
depending on their personal preference & fighting form. |
